Mejorar condensadores de señal

#1 por DaviZerrat el 08/03/2014
Hola compañeros,

Estoy mirando de sustituir los condensadores de pedales y amplis, para mejorar el sonido ya que los que se montan de serie son de muy baja calidad.

Las indicacion que sigo es : condensador de señal de 10uf para abajo con tensiones 25 a 50v suficiente. De aceite, de film de metal..... Tipo orange drop...rusos de color verde. Estoy desguazando todo lo que pillo y los tengo realmente antiguos.

Estoy un poco liado. El tema es que quiero modificar un ds1 , un sd1 y seguiria con el ampli tsl, si la cosa me funciona.

Me podeis recomendar un condensador que sepais que da buen resultado?? A mi me gustan los sonidos mas bien brillantes : )

Saludos y gracias,

Excuse me while i kiss the sky....

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#2 por DaviZerrat el 20/04/2014
Hola compañeros!!

Encontre este hilo digno de ser compartido. Los capacitores para audio mitos y realidades.

http://www.forosdeelectronica.com/f34/capacitores-uso-audio-mitos-realidades-15697/

Espero nos ayude con este tipo de dudas a los que empiezan con esto de desguazar cosas antiguas de nuestros antepasados.

Saludos a todos!!

Excuse me while i kiss the sky....

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1
#3 por DaviZerrat el 20/04/2014
El tema es que no me quiero gastar una pasta con un envio de 20€ para 15 condensadores y 4 resistencias que vales 5 leuros......

Parece que el condensador amarillo MKT es una opcion correcta y facil de encontrar, para sustituir los electroliticos de baja calidad.

Ahun asi si algun compañero mas rodado puede aportar algo de conocimiento aqui se lo agradeceria ; )


Saludos!!

Excuse me while i kiss the sky....

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#4 por Electronica Baile el 21/04/2014
El grandísimo Robert Keely recomienda estos condensadores: "Panasonic V-Series Stacked Metal Film" que son baratos y funcionan muy bien.

Para amplificadores mi opinión está en no escatimar gastos debido a que unos buenos te van a dar un resultado que no lo tendrás con los baratos y además, la inversión te durara al menos entre 6-10 años dependiendo del uso que hagas del mismo, con lo cual, si lo divides te saldrá a pagar a lo mejor entre unos poco céntimos a dos euros como mucho cada año. Casi menos que tomarte una cerveza con los amigos :unabirra:

El consejo que doy a mis clientes cuando les ofrecemos un cambio de condensadores es este: "Esto es como un coche, si le das lo mejor te durará más y tendrá menos averias" (siempre que hagas el mantenimiento oportuno jajajajaja). Por ello siempre les damos la posibilidad de que eligan entre ponerle unos chinos baratos de marca "NISU" o ponerle CALIDAD.

Marcas buenas de condensadores para amplificadores: Nichicon (los originales, no los que venden los chinos), F&T, Sprague Atom y Orange Drop, Mallory, Illionis, MKP, JJ Electronics, los PIO soviéticos K40Y-9 y los de la serie FT3...

Para resistencias, si el ampli es antiguo los que más fama tienen son los Allen Bradley, Mundorf, Huntington...

Espero que con esto te haya podido ayudar.

Venta de accesorios, componentes electrónicos y repuestos para amplificadores bajos, guitarras, pedales de efectos y radios antiguas:

http://www.electronicabaile.com

http://stores.ebay.es/Electronica-Baile

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#5 por DaviZerrat el 25/04/2014
Saludos y gracias Electrónica Baile por comentar,

Alguien me puede orientar (ahun que sea por privado ) donde conseguir condensadores "Panasonic V-Series stacked metal film" por Barcelona o alrededores?? Me gustaría comprar en tienda física.... Por lo menos la primera vez, así tengo menos riesgo de meter la pata XD


Adjunto enlace con la mod del SD-1 keeley Mod. El mejor que he encontrado por si es de vuestro interés....

Enlace:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=60901.0

Copiar pegar, por si no os apetece hacer el registro....

i've seen the interest of keeley mods around the board so i am posting all the mods that i know of;

ds-1;
You will need:

* 0.1uF Capacitor x 5
* 1uF Capacitor x 4 (or two 0.47uF caps in parallel, it should give the same results)
* 0.047uF Capacitor x 1
* 3mm LED x 1 (I bought two so I didn't have to use the one that you take out of the DS-1)
* on/on SPDT switch
* 2.4k Resistor x 1
* 20k Resistor x 1
* 1.5k Resistor x 1
* 220pf Cap x 1
* 47pf Cap x 1

Step 1 - Removing the board [Top]

1. Use a flat head screwdriver to lever off the knobs on the DS-1 then use some pliers to unscrew the nuts on the pots.
2. Unscrew the black screws on either side to provide access to the on/off switch
3. Unscrew the nuts on the input jacks
4. Undo all four screws on the base plate
(not shown)
5. Remove base plate, plastic to get to the circuit board.
6. Remove the screw on the LED to the top of the pedal
7. Turn the pedal on its front so you can see where the battery goes. On my pedal, I simply had to push two sides of the clips together and lift out the switch. The wires were soldered through the pedal so I unsoldered the purple and black wires and set the switch aside.

You should now be able to completely remove the circuit from the housing.

Step 2 - Removing the components [Top]

C1, C3, C5, C12, C13 - these are silver in colour and look like they are covered in plastic


C2, C8, C9, C14 - Rather than being silver, these look like small black batteries


C11, R13, R14, R39, C7, D5 - This is a more mixed bunch, there's some silver caps, resistors and a ceramic cap.



Step 3 - Putting in the new components [Top]

* R13 needs to have a 2.4k resistor
* R39 needs to have a 20k resistor
* R14 needs to have a 1.5k resistor
They look like this in place
* C1, C3, C5, C12, C13 all need to be installed with 0.1Uf Caps
* C2, C8, C9, C14 need to have 1uF caps installed
( I used two 0.47 caps in parallel I.E. soldered together to make a 0.94uF cap, yours will probably look different)
* C11 needs to have a 0.047uF cap
* C7 needs to be changed to a 220pf cap
* There needs to be a 47pf cap across clipping diodes, solder the cap to http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j23/overdrivespider/?action=view&current=step03_05.jpg

Step 4 - Switching between the All-seeing eye mod and the Ultra mod
1. Undsolder D4 on the right hand side (this is the side with the black stripe on the diode)
and send that wire to the middle lug of the switch.
2. You then wire the + side of the LED to one of the two remaining lugs, it dosn't really matter which one.
The longer leg should be positive (http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm).
3. Send a piece of wire from the last remaining lug and the negative side of the LED to the space in D4.


If you are installing a new check LED, note which side of the LED was + and - and put the new LED in accordingly - if you forget or don't know don't worry it wont damage the LED if you try it both ways. Usually, most 3mm LEDs will work with the current resistor in, but if you are using a 5mm LED change R35 to a 2k4 resistor.

Step 5 - Re-assembly [Top]
If you have used a switch this is important, you have to decide where to put it! The most room is on the sides just below the jacks, this however does look kinda clumsy and is kinda difficult to reach. The alternative is on the face of the pedal where all the knobs are. This is a bit more difficult, but looks a lot better. My pedal has the Keeley switch on the front and two more switches on the side (one for circuit bending and the other for switching between two capacitors).

If you want it on the front, be careful when drilling and make sure that you don't damage the components! (I took mine out for this bit) Remember to use a punch so the drill dosn't move (if you don't have a propper one, use a screw).
[/color]



Sd-1
***** SD-1 5-Star Ge Mod ****
Board Number New part Old part Reason

C10 --> Metal Stack Film 1uF, remove electrolytic, increased fidelity,

C7--> Metal Stack Film 1uF, remove electrolytic increased fidelity,

R6 --> 2.4k ohm metal film, 4.7k, increased distortion

C3--> 0.1uf metal stack film, 0.047uf, fidelity and bass response

C2--> 0.1uf metal stack film, 0.018 fidelity and bass response,

R2--> 620k ohm metal film, 470k ohm, increased input impedance, better bypass,

Add 47pF cap across diodes in clipping section to smooth out distortion, just like TS9,

On some older units, short out D3 and the 470 ohm resistor in the power supply section to increase the voltage to the circuit. This increase the headroom and gain. Newer units have it shorted already.

Here is the tricky part of our mod, take a germanium (Ge) transistor and use the Base-Emitter junction (legs) of the device and use it in place of D6. If you use a PNP transistor, the Base will be the negative or cathode side, the Emitter will be the anode. Here is a diode drawing Cathode---|<----Anode. This increases the amount of distortion produced by the pedal, it also sound really nice. Try this! Don't leave it out! It's fun. Get your Ge transistors from Steve Daniels http://www.smallbearelec.com

If you want to drill out the LED and install a 5mm big job, change R30 to a 1.2k-3.3k ohm depending on brightness and battery drain you want, replacing the stock 3.9k ohm.


Saludos guitarriles,

Excuse me while i kiss the sky....

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